LED Equivalent Wattage Chart for Commercial Retrofits
Find the LED replacement for T8, T12, T5HO, metal halide and HPS fixtures. Unlike most charts, every existing wattage here is the system input watts: lamp plus ballast, which is what the meter sees and what your savings should be based on.
Fluorescent to LED equivalent chart
Linear fluorescent is the most common fixture on a commercial retrofit. The LED tube column is a Type B (ballast bypass) tube. A Type A tube that runs on the existing ballast draws about 10 to 15% more, because the ballast stays in the circuit. See Type A vs Type B LED tubes for when each one makes sense.
| Existing fixture | System input W | LED tube W (Type B) | LED kit or fixture W | Saves per fixture/yr |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| T8 4 ft 1-lamp | 32 W | 15 W | 15 to 20 W | $10 |
| T8 4 ft 2-lamp | 59 W | 30 W | 25 to 35 W | $18 |
| T8 4 ft 3-lamp | 89 W | 45 W | 35 to 45 W | $27 |
| T8 4 ft 4-lamp | 112 W | 60 W | 40 to 50 W | $32 |
| T8 2 ft 2-lamp | 33 W | 16 W | 16 to 22 W | $10 |
| T8 8 ft 2-lamp | 110 W | 72 to 88 W | 55 to 70 W | $23 |
| Vapor tight 4 ft 2-lamp (T8) | 59 W | 30 W | 30 to 40 W | $18 |
| T12 4 ft 2-lamp | 96 W | 30 W | 25 to 35 W | $40 |
| T12 8 ft 2-lamp | 160 W | 72 to 88 W | 55 to 70 W | $54 |
| T5 4 ft 2-lamp | 62 W | 28 W | 25 to 35 W | $21 |
| T5HO 4 ft 2-lamp | 116 W | 48 W | 45 to 60 W | $41 |
Input watts are typical for a normal ballast factor (about 0.88). Savings per fixture use the first LED option, 4,680 hours a year (2 shifts) and $0.13/kWh.
Metal halide to LED conversion chart
Metal halide ballasts add 15 to 30% on top of the lamp watts, so the input watts are well above the number printed on the lamp. LED wattages below are the usual one-for-one replacement in the same location.
| Existing fixture | System input W | Typical LED W | LED lumens | Typical use | Saves per fixture/yr |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 70 W metal halide | 95 W | 30 W | 3,500 to 4,500 | Wall packs, canopies, small floods | $40 |
| 100 W metal halide | 128 W | 40 W | 5,000 to 5,500 | Wall packs, canopies | $54 |
| 150 W metal halide | 185 W | 60 W | 7,500 to 8,500 | Wall packs, low bays, parking lots | $76 |
| 175 W metal halide | 210 W | 60 to 80 W | 8,000 to 11,000 | Low bays, parking lots, gas canopies | $91 |
| 250 W metal halide | 290 W | 100 W | 13,000 to 15,000 | High bays at 20 to 25 ft, area lights | $116 |
| 320 W metal halide (pulse start) | 365 W | 120 to 150 W | 16,000 to 21,000 | High bays, area lights | $149 |
| 400 W metal halide | 458 W | 150 W | 20,000 to 22,000 | High bays at 25 to 30 ft, area lights, floods | $187 |
| 1000 W metal halide | 1,100 W | 300 to 400 W | 40,000 to 50,000 | Very tall bays, sports fields, large floods | $487 |
LED lumens are a typical delivered package for the replacement, not the metal halide's rated lumens. For 1000 W metal halide, start at 300 W and go to 400 W where the client wants more light or the mounting height is over 40 ft.
HPS to LED equivalent chart
High pressure sodium is mostly found in parking lots, roadways, garages and older warehouses. The amber light makes it look brighter on a meter than it feels to the eye, which is one more reason to size the LED by lumens and not by watts alone.
| Existing fixture | System input W | Typical LED W | LED lumens | Typical use | Saves per fixture/yr |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 70 W HPS | 95 W | 30 W | 3,500 to 4,500 | Wall packs, small area lights | $40 |
| 100 W HPS | 128 W | 40 W | 5,000 to 6,000 | Wall packs, parking areas | $54 |
| 150 W HPS | 185 W | 50 to 60 W | 7,000 to 8,500 | Parking lots, roadway | $76 |
| 250 W HPS | 295 W | 100 W | 13,000 to 15,000 | Area and roadway lights, high bays | $119 |
| 400 W HPS | 465 W | 150 W | 20,000 to 22,000 | Area lights, high bays, floods | $192 |
High bay T5HO and T8 to LED
Fluorescent high bays are already more efficient than metal halide, so savings per fixture are smaller, but they add up on a large floor. To size a full warehouse, including fixture count and spacing, use the high bay lighting calculator.
| Existing fixture | System input W | Typical LED W | LED lumens | Saves per fixture/yr |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 4-lamp T5HO high bay | 232 W | 100 to 120 W | 14,000 to 16,000 | $80 |
| 6-lamp T5HO high bay | 348 W | 150 to 165 W | 20,000 to 23,000 | $120 |
| 6-lamp T8 high bay | 168 W | 80 to 100 W | 11,000 to 14,000 | $41 |
| 8-lamp T8 high bay | 224 W | 100 to 120 W | 14,000 to 16,000 | $75 |
Screw-in bulb LED equivalents
For screw-in lamps, the wattage on the box is close to what the bulb draws, so the usual lumen-based equivalents work. Most commercial jobs have a few of these in lobbies, stairwells and display lighting.
| Existing bulb | LED equivalent | Typical lumens |
|---|---|---|
| Incandescent 40 W | 5 to 6 W | 450 |
| Incandescent 60 W | 8 to 10 W | 800 |
| Incandescent 75 W | 11 to 13 W | 1,100 |
| Incandescent 100 W | 14 to 16 W | 1,600 |
| Halogen PAR38 90 W | 13 to 15 W | about 1,200 |
| CFL 13 W | 9 W | 800 |
| CFL 23 W | 14 W | 1,600 |
How to use this chart on an audit
- Identify the fixture, not just the lamp. Count the lamps, note the length and lamp type, and read the ballast label if you can reach it. A 4 ft 2-lamp T8 and a 4 ft 2-lamp T12 look alike from the floor and draw very different watts.
- Use the input watts for the existing load. Take the system input watts from the chart, or from the ballast label or a meter reading when you have one. Never use the lamp wattage alone.
- Pick the LED by light, then check the watts. Start from the typical LED wattage, confirm the lumens suit the space, and check that the exact product is DLC listed if the client wants a rebate.
- Run the savings for the whole job. Multiply the watts saved by quantity and operating hours, or enter every fixture type in the LED retrofit savings calculator.
Why input watts matter
A 400 W metal halide lamp draws about 458 W once you add its ballast. If you calculate savings with 400 W, you understate the existing load by 58 W per fixture, which is 13% of the real draw. On 50 fixtures running 4,680 hours a year, that's 13,572 kWh, or about $1,764 a year, missing from the proposal.
The same happens with fluorescent. A 4 ft 2-lamp T8 fixture has two 32 W lamps, but the fixture draws about 59 W on a normal ballast, not 64 W, because of the ballast factor. Older or high-output ballasts can push it to 70 W or more.
Ballast factor is the share of a lamp's rated light output it produces on a given ballast. A ballast factor of 0.88 means the lamp gives 88% of its rated lumens and draws a matching share of power. Low ballast factor ballasts (about 0.77) save energy, high ones (1.15 or more) push more light and draw more watts.
This is the most common mistake in retrofit savings, and the easiest to avoid. Use system input watts from the chart, or better, from the ballast label or a meter reading on site.
Pick by lumens, not watts
Watts tell you what a fixture costs to run. Lumens tell you how much light it makes. The LED replacement should deliver the light the space needs, which is often less than the old fixture's rated lumens. Metal halide loses a large share of its output over its life, and much of the light from an HID lamp is lost inside the fixture or sent sideways. An LED puts its light where the optic aims it, so a lower lumen package can still match or beat the light on the floor.
When in doubt, measure foot-candles before the retrofit and size to the target, not to the old fixture. The lighting layout calculator does this for a room.
LED vs metal halide
LED uses 60 to 70% less energy than metal halide for the same delivered light. It turns on instantly, while metal halide takes several minutes to warm up and longer to restrike after a power blip. That makes occupancy sensors practical in warehouses for the first time. LED also holds its output much longer, so a high bay that needed a lift every couple of years for relamping can run for many years without one.
LED vs HPS
HPS is efficient on paper, but its light is orange with very poor color rendering, around 20 to 25 CRI. Colors, faces and license plates are hard to read under it. LED at 70 CRI or more shows true color and is easier for cameras. It uses about a third of the energy, and like metal halide, HPS takes minutes to restrike. Most parking lot and garage retrofits replace HPS with LED at about a third of the old input watts.
Savings per fixture: worked example
Take one 400 W metal halide high bay replaced by a 150 W LED:
- Watts saved: 458 W − 150 W = 308 W.
- kWh saved per year: 308 W × 4,680 hours ÷ 1,000 = 1,441 kWh.
- Dollars saved per year: 1,441 kWh × $0.13 = about $187.
Fifty of them save 72,072 kWh and about $9,369 a year, the same result as the high bay calculator. To calculate a whole building with several fixture types, payback and rebates, use the LED retrofit savings calculator.
Rebates need the right product
Most commercial utility programs in the US and Canada only pay for LED products listed by the DesignLights Consortium. Check the model number on the DLC Qualified Products List before you quote, and keep the spec sheets with the job file. Some programs also require ENERGY STAR for screw-in lamps.
See lighting rebate programs by utility, and how midstream, prescriptive and custom incentives work.
These wattages are built into LumaQuote
Pick the existing fixture and the input watts and LED options fill in, from the same library as this chart. Add quantities area by area, and LumaQuote builds the savings, rebates and a proposal your client can sign.
Start freeFree plan: 3 complete proposals, no credit card.
LED equivalent FAQ
What LED replaces a 400W metal halide?
A 150 W LED high bay with about 20,000 to 22,000 lumens. The 400 W metal halide actually draws about 458 W with its ballast, so the swap saves about 308 W per fixture, or about $187 a year at 4,680 hours and $0.13/kWh. Use 200 W where the client wants more light or the fixtures are mounted very high.
What LED replaces a 1000W metal halide?
A 300 to 400 W LED with about 40,000 to 50,000 lumens. A 1000 W metal halide draws about 1,100 W with its ballast. Start at 300 W and go to 400 W for mounting heights over about 40 ft, sports lighting or where the client wants more light.
What LED replaces a 250W metal halide?
A 100 W LED with about 13,000 to 15,000 lumens, or 120 W for more light. A 250 W metal halide draws about 290 W with its ballast, so the 100 W LED saves about 190 W per fixture.
What LED replaces a 175W metal halide?
A 60 to 80 W LED with about 8,000 to 11,000 lumens. A 175 W metal halide draws about 210 W with its ballast. These are common in low bays, parking lots and gas station canopies.
What LED replaces a 400W HPS?
A 150 W LED with about 20,000 to 22,000 lumens, or 200 W for more light. A 400 W HPS draws about 465 W with its ballast. The LED also gives much better color than the orange HPS light.
How many watts does a 4 ft 2-lamp T8 fixture use?
About 59 W with a normal electronic ballast, not 64 W, because the ballast factor is about 0.88. A 3-lamp fixture draws about 89 W and a 4-lamp about 112 W. Older T12 2-lamp fixtures on magnetic ballasts draw about 96 W.
Is LED better than metal halide?
For nearly every commercial retrofit, yes. LED uses about 60 to 70% less energy for the same light on the floor, turns on instantly, lasts much longer and works with occupancy sensors, which metal halide can't do well because of its warm-up and restrike time. Size the LED by the lumens the space needs, not by the old wattage.
Do I need to remove the ballast for LED?
It depends on the product. Type A tubes run on the existing ballast. Type B tubes bypass it, so the ballast is removed and the sockets are wired to line voltage. Retrofit kits and new LED fixtures come with their own driver. Our Type A vs Type B guide explains the tradeoffs in cost, energy and maintenance.